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How to Groom your Pomeranian
like a show dog
 Ever wonder how those Pomeranians look so good at the dogs shows? Well it starts with the proper bathing technique. This is a great way to bond with your pet as well. So get that brush and bottle and "Let's Groom"!

Things You'll Need:
  • Pin Brush
  • Metal Double Sided Comb
  • Misting Bottle filled with 1/4 conditioner 3/4 water
  • Ear Cleaner
  • Towel
  • Boar Bristle Shoe Brush
  • Shampoo
  • Conditioner
  • Dryer, can be hand held
  • Styling Mousse
  1. Show Coat Preparation:
    Start by lightly misting the entire coat with a conditioning spray. This prevents static during your pre brush and minimizes stretching of the follicle. After the dog has been lightly saturated lay him on either side, if possible, then using a Pin Brush you will start at the bottom of the rear leg and brush in an upward motion. It is most important to understand you are gently Brushing coat not ripping through coat. After completing the first side lay the dog on the other side and repeat.
  2. The Bath:
    I always start my Pomeranian's bath by applying an ear cleaner to the ear canal. This starts moving any dirt up towards the opening and helps keep the ear dry. Then, starting at the nose, apply warm water in the direction of coat growth. Once the entire dog is saturated with water apply your first shampoo.
    If dog has an oily you need to start breaking that up without compromising the coat. The best shampoo for this is a clarifying shampoo. If the dog has a normal coat you need a shampoo that will release dirt from the follicle, again without compromise. I recommended a conditioning shampoo. Dogs that have heavy staining you might want to use a brightening shampoo. You can use this as your first shampoo or only apply where as needed.
    After shampoo has been applied over the entire coat take a boar bristle brush (a shoe brush is best) and gently brush the shampoo through the coat in the direction of coat growth. This will stimulate blood circulation so important for keeping the follicle healthy. Remember you are brushing coat not scraping skin. I use a soft pedicure brush for the face, pads and at the nail bed to start breaking up stubborn stains and dirt. Do not forget under the tail.
    I check and express, if necessary, the anal glands during the rinsing of the first bath. I find the dog has relaxed through the brushing/massaging process and is distracted by the rinsing. Since there will be another shampoo you will not end up with that residual aroma only detected while drying.
    After rinsing apply your second shampoo and follow the same brushing procedure. By brushing gently each step of the way you cleanse and rejuvenate the skin and coat as well as guarantee you have the product on the coat long enough to receive maximum results. Your second shampoo will depend on what you need to accomplish on your dogs coat. Since the Pomeranian is a double coated dog it is a very important to pick the correct second shampoo, consult with your breeder or groomer.
    After rinsing it is time to condition or reconstruct the skin and coat. Again you will start by applying product entirely all over the coat and follow by brushing it through. You may use a pin brush if you prefer instead of the Boar bristle. If using a pin brush, brush through the coat in a slightly upward and out angle, always in the direction of coat growth. But before you brush you need to choose the proper conditioner.
  3. Conditioning the Coat:
    For a dog with a coat on the overly soft side you might want to use a light conditioner to help add crispness to the coat. Proper coat texture use a weekly conditioner. Coat that needs reconstructing due to prior damage needs a heavy conditioner.
    When rinsing, it is important to use warm water to increase circulation and excess coat release. Warm water helps open the follicle so it may accept products more favorably. Always rinse in the direction of coat growth massaging the coat through with your fingers, downward motion, or use your brush of choice. Squeeze the product through gently and make sure all product has been removed before you ever continue on to the next step.
    Once the dog is thoroughly rinsed and before you start to towel re apply ear cleaner to keep the ear dry and then apply all styling products. Use products that will accomplish what you need such as mousse for volume or a straightener to keep fluff under control. After all other products have been applied. If you need to straighten the coat lightly mist over those areas needed, again after all other products have been applied.
    Work product into the coat with your fingers in the same manner you work your fingers while rinsing. You might lose a bit of product after toweling but you can always add. In applying at this time I find the product gets all the way down the shaft to the skin. This is most important in enabling you to set the proper base during drying of the coat. You will squeeze the towel around the dog and coat especially paying attention to the legs and feet. You will spend too much time drying the feet if left too wet. This will cause you to possibly not get the maximum result in setting the base of the coat.
  4. Drying the Coat:
    This is the most important part of the process. If you do not establish a proper base direction you will find you only will be fighting the base when trying to complete the final product.
    Start by laying down, the Pomeranian if possible, on the off, non show, side. You want your show side to be most fresh. Mist with your antistatic, thickener or setting product then take the back leg elevate and brush, with a pin or boar bristle brush, in a free moving upward motion. I use a boar bristle brush on the short coat and a pin brush on the longer coat and finish with a comb. Follow through each swing as one would in tennis. You will reduce stress on your back, arm and rotator cup. Get a rhythm going and work around the entire foot before moving up the leg. You need not a death grip in the brush so that if you hit that hidden mat you will not end up ripping coat. Rather gently hold your brush and swing through the coat.
    All sections will be brushed against the grain to create as much volume as possible. The same backward brushing is applied to the neck to head, ending on the face. By setting your base in a direction away from the skin, you allow for creative finishing, concealing faults, or accentuating attributes. I like to finish my show side (please remember to place them on a clean dry towel) before finishing the headpiece.
    The headpiece is most important. Use your boar bristle brush on the face and ears first. Ears are important to completely dry so they have the appearance of being short and thick. After those are dry apply (IOD) on the ruff and top of head for maximum volume.
    Finish drying the tail towards the head. You might need a quick remist to help reduce kinks and straighten the tail coat. Go back over the pants of the Pomeranian to help them flatten as much as needed to give the proper outline.
    Once the Pomeranian is thoroughly dry you can reexamine areas that might need more products added. The easiest way to check dryness is to turn off the heat of your dryer and when the temp is cool run your fingers through the coat in a wiggling motion. If you feel any overly cool or cold areas they are still damp. I like to end with a warm dryer to help keep just enough moisture in the coat to add volume.
  5. Now your Pomeranian is show ready! The both of you deserve a treat how about going to lunch at a dog friendly restaurant?
Tips & Warnings
  • If you run into a mat get your heavy conditioning spray (1/2 conditioner 1/2 water) and soak the mat. I would continue to lightly brush the mat in a lifting motion starting at the end of the mat, working your way towards the skin. Balance between brushing and combing. The most important thing here is to take your time. If you rush and stretch the coat it can takes months to restore the elasticity to the follicle. Using a silicone base spray and a heat dryer is most effective for stubborn mats. You would soak the mat and then angle the dryer to blow away from the skin. In a lifting motion rotate between Pin Brush and your Comb. If the mat starts to dry out remoisten.
  • Always use quality products recommended by your breeder or groomer.
  • Products should always be gentle enough to bath in weekly.
  • You must brush daily to avoid matting.
Read more: How to Grooming your Pomeranian like a show dog | eHow.comhttp://www.ehow.com/how_5105299_grooming-pomeranian-like-show-dog.html#ixzz11jiArBDp


How to Be Successful at Kittens First Bath!
Start your baby Kitten with a good bathing experience and you will have a happy cat forever. This simple approach will have you and kitty purring with delight.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy Instructions

Things You'll Need:
  • 3 Towels
  • 1 Washcloth
  • Shampoo
  • Small Bristle Brush
  • Hand Held Hair Dryer
  • Calm Attitude

  1. Start your kitten as soon as possible to insure a long lasting positive experience. The best place to start is in a bathroom that is quiet and has a door you can close.
  2. Start by clipping your kittens nails, you do not need to go to short just clip enough to take the sharp edge off. This will keep accidental snags down to a minimum. Once you are done start to rub your kitten under the jaw and around the face. This will get him in a relaxed mood and will start to look forward to the next step.
  3. Take your first towel dampen it slightly and pop it in the microwave for 30 seconds or enough just to warm it up. You do not want it to get too hot just give it that "Just out of the dryer" warmth. Now spread a small amount of shampoo on the warm towel. I like to use shampoo that is diluted 1-4 with water. This makes for easier rinsing on a wiggly kitten.
  4. Wrap the kitten in the towel, making sure to place the shampoo part on the kittens back. It is important to wrap all but the head of the kitten to keep a good control. Now do not wrap too tightly, just enough to keep the legs from popping out. Speak quietly to your kitten and rub the body and face in a soothing fashion. This will not only calm kitty but you as well. Keeping calm is the most important part.
  5. Turn the water on at only enough pressure to gently wet the towel. Many cats and kittens are scared by the high pitch of the running water. You will be able to tell if the noise is too much by your kittens attitude. If your kitten starts to tense up slow the pressure. Once the water is at a consistent lukewarm temperature you can start the bath. Slowly place the towel under the running water and start massaging the kitten. Speak gently and keep rubbing until the kitten is enjoying the warmth of the water surrounding its body. Once the kitten is relaxed (and you relaxed as well) you can bring over the washcloth and wet that.
  6. Start massaging and rubbing the wash cloth over the kittens face. If the kitten is still relaxed start moving the wash cloth down the neck and body. Let the wet towel move off to the side or floor. Use the wash cloth to remove all the shampoo the towel applied to your kitten. By now you and your kitten should be so relaxed and enjoying the massage you both will be humming.
  7. Once all the shampoo is removed turn off the water and bring over a dry towel. Wrap up the kitten and keep massaging and rubbing. I use the drying towel to rub the inside of the ears to get them clean. I only apply ear cleaner if there is a problem as cats usually only need the dirt rubbed off and can be very sensitive to anything in their ears. The next thing you know your kitten will only be damp and ready, yes ready, to be dried.
  8. Place your kitten on the final dry towel and cover their head and ears with the drying towel you just used. This will muffle the sound of the dryer and should keep your kitten calm when you turn on the dryer. Turn your dryer on low and only warm heat, high heat can irritate your kittens skin. Start near the tail and use the small bristle brush in a circular manner to dry the fur. You can also rub with the towel if that keeps everyone in the mood. While the head is covered you can try to rotate the kitten on their back to get the tummy and back legs dry. Only do as much as your kitten will take as you want this to be a positive experience. Once the shoulders and neck are dry slowly remove the towel and dry the head and face. If your kitten starts to stress stop and dry the head with the towel. If the kitten is not completely dry keep them in a warm place until they are.

    You now have a happy and clean kitten who should look forward to their next bath time!
Tips & Warnings
  • STAY CALM If you are calm your kitten will be calm
  • Frequent bathing reduces hairball' s, allergens in the house and keeps pests in check.
  • Start with as much as the kitten will take. You may have to practice wrapping and rubbing the kitten and then move to the actual bath in time. Once they enjoy this as a kitten they will look forward to it as an adult.
  • Only use shampoo and products recommended by your groomer, they are the experts who see actual results.
  • Turn the bathroom fan on before you enter the bathroom. This will keep the shock of the sounds, of running water and the dryer turning on, to a minimum.
  • Turn the heat lamp on in case your kitten is too afraid of the dryer.
  • Use only approved products for cats and kittens. The incorrect product can cause nerve damage or death.
  • Just because something says it is natural do not expect it is safe for your kitten. Some natural products in the incorrect proportions can be harmful to your kitten. Only use products recommended by your groomer or breeder.

How to Scrub Your Pug!
Pugs are a bundle of fun and enjoy making you laugh all the time. Even though the Pug is a short haired breed they seem to shed, shed and shed some more. Bathing is key but that flat face and all those wrinkles pose problems. Time to learn how to Scrub Your Pug!
Difficulty: Moderately Easy Instructions
Things You'll Need:
  • 1 Towel
  • 1 Washcloth
  • 1 Facial Mitt
  • Boar Bristle Brush or shoe brush
  • Toothbrush
  • Sweat Scraper, made for horses
  • Hand Held Hair Dryer
  • Shampoo
  • Conditioner
  • Furminator
  1. I recommend taking your Pug to a self serve dog wash so you do not end up chasing a wet Pug through your house. They have a sense of humor as you know.
  2. Coat Preparation:                                                                                                          Lightly mist the entire Pug as this will keep the hair from flying all over the place. Take your Boar Bristle brush and start brushing from the head back, using a medium to strong stroke to get most of the dead coat started to release. Pay particular attention to the legs, feet ears and tail as this is an area most often missed by owners. Now take your Furminator and gently go over your Pug. Be careful not to use too much as you can get bald areas or irritate the skin if over brushed.
  3. The Bath:
    I always start my Pugs bath by applying an ear cleaner to the ear canal. This starts moving any dirt up towards the opening and helps keep the ear dry. Then, starting at the nose, apply warm water in the direction of coat growth. Once the entire dog is saturated with water apply your first shampoo.
    If dog has an oily coat you need to start breaking that up without compromising the follicle. The best shampoo for this is a clarifying shampoo. If the dog has a normal coat you need a shampoo that will release dirt from the follicle, again without compromise. I recommended a conditioning shampoo. Dogs that have heavy staining you might want to use a brightening shampoo. You can use this as your first shampoo or only apply where as needed.
    After shampoo has been applied over the entire coat take a boar bristle brush (a shoe brush is best) and gently brush the shampoo through the coat in the direction of coat growth. This will stimulate blood circulation so important for keeping the follicle healthy. Remember you are brushing coat not scraping skin. I use a soft pedicure brush for the face, pads and at the nail bed to start breaking up stubborn stains and dirt. Do not forget under the tail.
    I check and express, if necessary, the anal glands during the rinsing of the first bath. I find the dog has relaxed through the brushing/massaging process and is distracted by the rinsing. Since there will be another shampoo you will not end up with that residual aroma only detected while drying.
    After rinsing apply your second shampoo and follow the same brushing procedure. By brushing gently each step of the way you cleanse and rejuvenate the skin and coat as well as guarantee you have the product on the coat long enough to receive maximum results. Your second shampoo will depend on what you need to accomplish on your dogs coat. Since the Pug is a short coated dog it is a very important to pick the correct second shampoo, consult with your breeder or groomer.
  4. Washing the Face:                                                                                                             This is the hardest part of your Pug to get clean. All those wrinkles pose a great challenge for owners yet this is the area that need the cleaning the most. The easiest way to wash the face is by applying your shampoo to a facial mitt for all you have to do is pretend you are petting your Pugs face. It will be easier for you to get in between the wrinkles without fear of frightening your Pug. More experienced owners might prefer a toothbrush, washcloth or pedicure brush for the face. Make she you get around the lip line of the mouth and between the eyes. This is where the face stays the wettest and tends to smell like sour milk. Simply cover the eyes with your fingers and the Pug will shut their eyes so you can rinse. If your Pug will not sit still for the rinse use your washcloth to rinse off the face.
  5. The Bath, Condition:
    After rinsing it is time to condition or reconstruct the skin and coat. Again you will start by applying product entirely all over the coat and follow by brushing it through. You may use a sweat scraper or curry comb (both items made for horses) for heavy undercoat removal. Brush through the coat always in the direction of coat growth, to protect the skin. But before you brush you need to choose the proper conditioner. For a dog with a coat on the overly soft side you might want to use a light conditioner to help add crispness to the coat. Proper coat texture use a weekly conditioner. Coat that needs reconstructing due to prior damage needs a heavy conditioner.
    When rinsing, it is important to use warm water to increase circulation and excess coat release. Warm water helps open the follicle so it may accept products more favorably. Always rinse in the direction of coat growth massaging the coat through with your fingers or use your brush of choice. Make sure all product has been removed before you ever continue on to the next step.
    Once the dog is thoroughly rinsed and before you start to towel re apply ear cleaner to keep the ear dry and then apply all styling products. Use products that will accomplish what you need such as a straighter to keep fluff under control and to add shine. After all other products have been applied. Work product into the coat with your fingers in the same manner you work your fingers while rinsing. You might lose a bit of product after toweling but you can always add. In applying at this time I find the product gets all the way down the shaft to the skin. This is most important in enabling you to set the proper base during drying of the coat. You will squeeze the towel around the dog and coat especially paying attention to the legs and feet. You will spend too much time drying the feet if left too wet. This will cause you to possibly not get the maximum result in setting the base of the coat.
  6. Drying the Coat:
    This is the most important part of the process, if you do get all the way to the skin you will not get all the excess coat out and that is why you are doing this right?
    Start by using a force dryer in the tub after a good toweling of the coat. Start at the bottom of the read leg and blow off as much water as possible. Work your way up towards the body ending at the head. Turn the dog around and repeat. After you have completely gone around the entire dog you might want to towel again and repeat the forced dryer over the entire dog. This will get your Pug most of the way dry.
    Once on the drying table you will mist with your anti static or conditioner then take the back leg elevate and brush, with a boar bristle brush, in a free moving upward motion. Follow through each swing as one would in tennis. You will reduce stress on your back, arm and rotator cup. Get a rhythm going and work around the entire foot before moving up the leg. You need not a death grip in the brush, rather gently hold your brush and swing through the coat. The headpiece is most important. I use a boar bristle brush in a swift motion against the grain on the face and ears first. Ears are important to completely dry as they tend to get moisture build up that can lead to infection.
  7. Finish the Coat:
    In the case of heavily coated Pugs you will want to remove as much undercoat as possible to keep them manageable at home. After a light mist of your conditioning spray you will go back over the entire Pug with a Boar Bristle Brush or Furminator. Brush in the direction of coat growth until the coat no longer easily comes out. Over brushing can result in bald spots and skin irritation. If the Pug is blowing much coat I use a cool setting on a stand dryer to help release the coat. Place your dryer to blow in the direction of coat growth and brush in the direction of the air flow. This simple procedure will cut your brushing time in half. Apply conditioning spray as needed to help coat release more easily, careful not to soak the coat rather protect it from over stretching.
  8. By using the proper products (recommended by your groomer) you can scrub your Pug weekly during the high shedding times of the year. Then you can hug your Pug without him hanging on to your clothes all day!
Tips & Warnings
  • Some Pugs do not like the force dryer on their face. If this turns into more of a battle than need be simply towel dry the best you can and finish off with your stand, or hand held, dryer. I have had good success by placing cotton in the Pugs ears and a towel over the eyes. You must remember to remove the cotton from the ears.
  • Another trick is to rub with a face cloth under the dryer, sneaky but effective.
  • The easiest way to check dryness is to turn off the heat of your dryer and when the temp is cool run your fingers through the coat in a wiggling motion. If you feel any overly cool or cold areas they are still damp.
  • Just because something says it is natural do not expect it is safe for your Pug. Some natural products can be extremely drying as they lack the proper emollients for good skin and coat health. Only use products recommended by your groomer or breeder.
Read more: How to Scrub Your Pug | eHow.comhttp://www.ehow.com/how_5111510_scrub-pug.html#ixzz0yl4GtC1o

How to Tackle Toenails on your Dog
  Toenail trimming need not be a terrifying task for you or your pet. Let's look at options you have and some basic training techniques to help you give your pet a perfect pedicure.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy Instructions




Things You'll Need:
  • Nail Clipper, for your pets size
  • Nail File, coarse
  • Round sponge Nail File
  • Dremmel
  • Running Shoes
  • Kid with a Skateboard
  • TREATS

  1. 1
    By doing a bit each week you and your pet will gain confidence and look forward to some interesting quality time together.
    Choosing Nail Clippers: There are two styles of nail clippers on the market, a guillotine type and a scissor type. Purchase one that will accommodate your pets nail size and you feel most comfortable using. The key here is for you, the owner, to get confident. I elevate the dog on a table if possible or have a trusted friend or family member gently hold a small pet in arms and a large pet around the neck and massage the ears. If you are a beginner just clip a very small portion of the tip of the nail, this way you will not make the nail bleed and you and the pet will gain confidence. There is always next weeks trim to take a bit more off. Just before you clip give a quick blow in your pets face. This is a great distraction technique I learned from a nurse who never made my children cry when she gave a shot. After you clip get all excited and give your pet a treat, NEVER forget the treat. Get as many as you can at one time, remember there are many more hours in the day and days in the week to do this.If this is too much for either of you try the next approach.
  2. Filing Rather than Clipping: Try with a coarse straight file first. if this does not work we have a backup plan.I find the best place to file a nervous pet is while watching TV on the coach. Get them in the mood with a quick leg massage. Once you both are relaxed gently place the paw in your hand and file under the nail slowly, picking up speed as it is accepted. Gently talk in encouraging tone and words to get your pet to look at you rather than what you are doing. After you feel you have gotten enough filing done give them a treat and a tummy rub.Back Up File:Use a round sponge type file that will fit into the palm of your hand and use it gently during the massage portion. If the dog starts to suspect something is up go back to the massage.Remember there are many hours and days to get this done.
  3. Dremmel: OK so you are past the uncomfortable stage and almost a professional Pedicurist of Pups, but the dremmel still has mysteries. The biggest challenge is keeping hair out of the equipment. This is important as it can make for a very unpleasant experience and could cause harm to your pet. If your pet has long coated (or just long like a Hound Dog) ears put a snood around them. You can make a snood by cutting the foot off of a regular or knee hi sock, taking the ankle part and pulling it over the dogs head. If they are fluffy and insist on getting body coat near the foot put a T-shirt on them. And you thought that was only a fashion statement. The most important, for hairy feet, is a piece of panty hose to put over the foot and push the nails through. This gives you all the freedom to move around the nails without worrying about getting hair caught in the dremmel. After putting all that gear on your pet you need to give them a really big treat!
  4. Running Shoes: If everything else turns into one big fight just run, with your dog. Running, not walking, will force your dog to curl their toes towards the ground to push forward. This action will start the natural filing process and get you both in shape. The best surface for this is a sidewalk, I call it the Urban Nail File. If you have a Retriever, or a dog who will retrieve, get a ball, Frisbee or fave toy and throw, throw and throw some more.
  5. Kid with a Skateboard:Great alternate to running shoes! Use a harness with some padding and a control collar or gentle leader and let them go. Big dogs and small dogs LOVE this as well as the skateboarder.Once you have mastered the terrifying toenails get out that polish or oil, for the boys, and enjoy this time together even more.


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San Diego , CA , 92103 USA
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